Bougainville Diary

by Justin Tonti-Filippini

April, 2002

Whilst recording the music and events in Bougainville from December 22^nd, 1997 to January 13^th, 1998, I kept a diary. What is published here is this diary. On occasions, whilst typing, I have felt it relevant to explain/add comments. These later additions are in italics. I have also included song lyrics and translations. Again, these transcriptions and translations were undertaken by Sam and Josephine Kauona-Sirivi a few years later when I caught up with them in New Zealand. Perhaps too, the diary will make more sense if you know a tab more about its main characters namely, Sam and Josephine Kauona (Sirivi), myself, and our relationship.

Born in Melbourne, growing up in Bendigo, Victoria, Australia I studied music at Melbourne University before arriving in Papua New Guinea in 1984 as a school teacher. I am Caucasian by descent. By 1987 I was the music teacher at Passam National High School in the East Sepik where I met Josephine Karupang. She was my Year 12 music student and I taught her to play a few chords on the guitar. We became friends, and as it was a boarding school, her boyfriend Lieutenant Sam Kauona of the PNG Defence Force, used to sometimes "officially" stay with me whilst courting her. I'll say a little more about their earlier "romance" in the Diary. We three became friends.

Josephine invited me to spend Christmas 1987/New Year 1988 with her, Sam and her family in her village in central Bougainville. I stayed three weeks in her village, learnt several Bougainville songs and dances, and was adopted into Josephine's family. Significantly I made two journeys to the giant Panguna mine and met Francis Ona (although I was too 'young' to realise the seriousness of the politics at that time). I danced with her village for the upgrading of the road presided over by the then Provincial Premier, Joseph Kabui. It was a romantic experience for me, washing in the river, drinking water from the spring, fishing with the Bougainville boys... well I could go on.... but this story is about 1997/98, exactly 10 years later.

In 1988 the whole crisis began with Francis Ona leading the central Bougainville people in closing down the giant Panguna Copper mine. In came the PNG police soon to be followed by the PNG Defence Force. Sam was still with the PNG Defence Force when I met him in Port Moresby in February, 1989. He had just returned from explosives training in Australia. He told me Josephine was sick and that there was serious trouble back home, and that he had to go to her. That was the last I saw of either of them for many years.

Sam loved the army, so when later that year (1989) I read in the PNG national newspapers that he had gone AWOL I knew that there was no turning back. I expected both he and Josephine to be killed. There were several Bougainville students at the Goroka Teachers College where I was now a lecturer in music, and through these I learnt of news about Sam and Josephine. I learnt that they had had a daughter and had adopted another baby girl.

At the end of 1995 I asked for a short extension of my PNG Visa but was refused. This hurt, as after 11 years, I had friends throughout PNG I wanted to catch up with, to say goodbye to.

I happened also to have a girlfriend in Buka (Bougainville) and I wanted to spend Christmas with her, and to look for an opportunity to cross into central Bougainville to get back to "my village". Thwarted, I travelled to Cairns, Australia where, unexpectedly I met Sam Kauona who had been flown in by the Australian army for peace talks. He told me of the new music "his boys" had composed during the fighting, and asked me to come to Bougainville and record it. I said that I would.

By Christmas, 1997, this looked as though it might become a reality. The PNG Defence Force, Government, Resistance Fighters and Bougainville Revolutionary Army (under General Sam Kauona) had all agreed to a truce at perhaps the most significant meeting in Burnham, New Zealand. Furthermore, Sam now had access to a satellite telephone, so arrangements could now be made. It is here my diary begins: my story, but also Sam and Josephine's story.

22^nd December, 1997

And so I begin to tell another story. I am in the "rest house" next to the airport on Choiseul Bay, Solomon Islands. I am overnighting in the hope that Cletus and the others may pick me up tomorrow to go to Bougainville. I was supposed to have been here yesterday and so I may have missed my journey. It is a little worrying.

So, as I write this in the light of a kerosene lamp I have time to reflect. I am glad that I brought a mossie net with me - the mosquitoes are busy tonight.

23^rd December, 1997

I contacted Sam. today. A boat is ready here in Taro, Choiseul Bay, to take me across to Bougainville. Sam advised me to contact the local authority before departing. I did so and they have now refused me permission to go to Bougainville. They have ordered me to take the next plane back to Honiara. I am about to see the authorities again to ask for permission to remain in the islands.

23^rd December, 1997

It is evening, 9.00 pm and raining once again. I had dinner with Wilson Pita, the Provincial Speaker. The local police seem a little more relaxed about me now. They are no longer insisting that I catch the next plane back to Honiara. I managed to organize for Sam Kauona to talk to the police here and it seems that all parties are trying to clear the red tape for me to make the crossing. Both the PNG and Solomon Islands Prime Ministers are to be in Bougainville for Christmas day. That may have added to concerns about security. I can only wait to see what tomorrow brings. Meanwhile I am very tempted to drink the whisky I have brought for Raphael and friends in Bougainville. I could do with a drink! What a shame it is such a small bottle - it wont go far.

24^th December, 1997

The day before Christmas. Still I am here in Choiseul Bay. Last night I had a little whisky to settle myself down after yesterdays lows and being attacked by mossies; several got under the net. So, this morning I felt ready to go back: enough. Still there may be some chance. I talked to Sam. He is in contact with various ministers and clearance may be given. I can only wait and be ready.

25^th December, 1997

Yesterday the Solomon Islands defence Force, who have a security camp on nearby Sipizae Islands, ordered the local police to put me on the next plane to Honiara: I am a security risk, especially with the two Pms in Bougainville. Although disappointed I showed respect to the police and prepared to leave on the 2.00 pm flight.

To soften the blow I began to drain that bottle of whisky and invited Derek from Telecom to join me, and we were also joined by a West African United Nations worker called Jome. Being Muslim, Jome of course does not drink and is eagerly awaiting the arrival of his two wives. My bags were packed and heavy rain was falling as the three of us made a fun video explaining my failure to get to Bougainville.

Unexpectedly, a policeman arrived at the door. "I have good news", he said. He was drenched from the rain. "Clearance has been given. You can go to Bougainville". It was close to 2.00 pm, the timing could not have been closer. Somewhat inebriated with most of the whisky gone I jumped up and gave him a hug before we both walked in the pouring rain to the police station for confirmation. The police commander confirmed the message and further explained that he was doing his duty out of respect for Solomon Island's law, in ordering me to depart a few hours before. So, what made them change their mind?

Of course I can only guess. I think it was all a question of communications. The first radio message from the S.I. security came before Sam Kauona had talked directly to the Minister responsible for immigration. The Minister directed the securities to give me clearance. The securities then sent a second radio message advising the local police to disregard the first directive. However, this explanation is probably too simplistic. Given the sensitive nature of what is still a very volatile situation even under the Memorandum of Understanding which includes "freedom of movement", I have been viewed with great suspicion. I have been told that, given my years in PNG, I was perhaps viewed as a PNG spy.

So this is Christmas and still I am in Choiseul Bay. With clearance given I am awaiting a Bougainville boat called EK to pick me up. I am cleared to travel on this vessel only. Luckily I was able to buy the last drum of petrol (200 litres) on the island and 6 litres of oil. That should be enough to get me there and back. EK is expected tomorrow, Friday.

Tonight is my 4^th night in this rest house. It costs $20 (S.I.) [About AUD$8] per night. The petrol cost S.I.$500 + $96 long petrol. This morning Moses, Atkin, Derek and I attended a small United Church Christmas ceremony. It lasted about 30-40 minutes with only about 15-20 people in total. Later in the day Moses, Derek and I went across to Sipizae Island and walked around the island. Along the way Moses showed me the BRA camp - I saw nobody - and just 100 metres further on, the Solomon Island's security camp - fully manned. Perhaps it was not wise to lob around to the S'i' camp, but given the positive communications I did not see it doing me any great harm. Moses climbed one of the coconut trees and threw down three coconuts - one each - and got bitten by ants. As soon as he came down from the tree he jumped into the sea to wash of the ants. We laughed at his expense and enjoyed the coconuts before swimming back to Taro, Choiseul Bay. So ends another day - maybe tomorrow I'll get to Bougainville - maybe!!

26^th December, 1997

And I am still here in Taro, Choiseul Bay. This morning we went to the cool waterfall on Choiseul Island, returning at about 11.45 for me to call Bougainville at 12.00. EK had just come in and for a moment it looked likely we would travel, ... but ... then Cletus, tambu long Sam and "skipper of the boat" fell ill with malaria. We put him in the small hospital and now we await his recovery. He may be well enough to travel in the early morning... he may not. I am awaiting a 5.00 am call from the Bougainville boys to see if we 'hit the water'.

Looking back I feel that the boys having just crossed Bougainville Strait looked forward to a little R&R on Choiseul Bay. It is not an everyday crossing as I was to later learn! I was perhaps a little green to think that they would be heading immediately back. Still, Cletus certainly looked sick.

Tonight we had a gathering of about 40/50 people for a "Christmas dinner". Several people spoke and I was asked to say a few words. I spoke in TokPisin about: Christmas in Australia; Bougainville to decide Bougainville peacefully; and my being stranded here "is not too bad - not bad at all". In fact, seeing the Bougainville Care Centre and experiencing the friendliness of Solomon Islands, etc...

27^th December, 1997

I am in Bougainville, staying with Josey and Sam Kauona. After passing through the Solomon Islands Check Point on Sipizae Island where our names were recorded we began to head across the Bougainville Strait - about 8 of us in EK - a small boat with 2 engines. We then took a diversion to an outer island and picked up three rifles. They sat under my legs in a yellow canvass as we continued our journey.

Unfortunately I wore a T-shirt and shorts. I am now sunburnt. It is somewhat sore. Hopefully it will not keep me awake as today began at 5.oo am when I checked Cletus to see if he had recovered enough from his malaria to make the journey.

Communications had gone astray early this morning and I was unable to confirm with Sam and Josey and Joseph Kabui that I was coming and when. After off loading in Aropa I was lucky that a relative of S & J was passing by and took me to Biremeko Village. This is where I was 10 years ago.

Josey greeted me as did Joseph Kabui. Joseph was Premier when I was last here - we, including myself, danced for him on New Years eve, 1988, and for the upgrading of the road to this village.

Right now the people have been watching the videos I brought . . . I had better not write for too long as my absence is not polite.

28^th December, 1997

I am badly sunburnt from yesterday's crossing in the boat. Still, I wont rest today as Sam and Josey are planning on walking up the mountain where they will meet some of the Peace/Truce monitoring group. They tell me the bush sounds great and so I will try to record it for our proposed Bougainville album.

The vidoes were handed to me in Sydney by Claudio and Mandy. 15 videos in all - which made a small scene with the S.I. customs.

Now this walk! We will overnight and return tomorrow. I'll wear long trousers and a long sleeved shirt to give some protection although the walk will mostly be in the shade of the jungle. I will carry my camera and audio gear including DAT, mike and one spare battery. Insect repellant, toothbrush and toothpaste, a few bandages and a spare T-shirt will be included. I'll use the main pack in case of rain to protect the gear. I hope that my sunburn will not complain too much.

29^th December, 1997

I have just returned from the mountain. It was a good walk - not too difficult at all. I did not need the insect repellent as we were too high for the mossies. Unfortunately my camera has some moisture inside it and is not working today. I am glad I brought my stills camera as well. The sunburn, hopefully, is recovering.

The Truce Monitoring team (about 11 members of the 350 strong force) met with us in the village on the mountain (ples bilong Lucy na Raphael na ol lain). They had been walking hard for two days and were glad to finally make it. One girl, not a soldier, has been finding the going tough. They are from New Zealand, Australia, Fiji and Vanuatu. The Vanuatu bloke looks like a PNG Sepik, which of course, has raised numerous questions - so he at all times wears his large yellow armband labelled "Truce Monitoring".

One of the senior NZ army officers commented to me about Sam Kauona's "agitation" when I was initially ordered back to Honiara. I think that had I not been able to come through, the memorandum of Understanding for freedom of movement, agreed to in Burnham, New Zealand may have been called into question. I was the first non-Bougainvillean to "test" this agreement.

The Monitoring Group will remain in Bougainville until January 31^st by which time talks should have progressed enough to extend the truce, otherwise I have little doubt that fighting will resume.

I am surer than ever that there can be only one peaceful outcome: Bougainville's self determination. However, it is almost impossible for the PNG government and Defence Force to accept defeat. There still remains some conflict amongst Bougainvilleans. I see it as three way: (1) a non-negotiable surrender of all PNG forces; (2) a negotiable surrender; (3) Bougainville remains under PNG sovereignty. The last option seems almost unimaginable.

Now the Monitoring Team has arrived at Biremeko (effectively having followed us down the hill) where I am staying with Josey, Sam and Joseph Kabui. They are all watching one of the videos I brought called "Bougainville: our island, our fight" which was screened on SBS on December 19^th or 20^th. A helicopter will fly them to Arawa at 1400 hrs; meanwhile Sam has gone off for some more meetings.

30^th December, 1997

Today I walked up the hill, about 45 mins, to record a set of three Bougainville garamuts (large log drums). It is the first time I have heard garamuts from Bougainville so it was important that they were recorded.

The first recording was a "feast announcement". The custom of making garamuts had died out in Central Bougainville. Just as bush medicine has been revived because of the war blockade, so too have many other cultural practices. These three garamuts were made by Josey's cousin - John Kuianung - for his two children and his mother-in-law. Because this is a matrilineal society, the garamuts cannot be played without permission from the women in the family. As each garamut was being made, three pigs were given to the owners of each garamut (9 pigs in total). The depth of carving determined how many pigs each garamut was worth. When the garamuts were finished they were carried to the village with the owners on top. Only chiefs can build garamuts, so when John Kuianung - who is an old man - made the garamuts, people around the region asked "Who is this man. Does he think he is a chief?" Because John Kuinung has many pigs, he was able to provide the pigs for the big feast. The number of pigs for the feast are announced in the "Kuriteko" feast announcement by the garamuts.

The videoing and DAT recording I was doing showed three large garamuts, however traditionally, even larger garamuts were made. This is seen as a beginners/transition stage. Also, the special house for the garamuts had not yet been built.

Anyhow, I'll finish here for now because the kaukau is ready.

Josey told me that because I went up to do the recordings, the younger people realized that this garamut custom was important, so now they are keen to make a proper custom house and proper 'bilas' and learn the garamut signals. Josey also said that because she is a woman - John's cousin sister - he played the garamuts - otherwise I could not have heard them as they are sacred.

Anyhow, my stomach is wondering about that kaukau. My left ankle is swollen - I think because of the sunburn - my left knee is blistering (sunburn) and there has been bleeding (sunburn) not aided by numerous bites. It was mighty dumb not to be properly covered in the boat ride across Bougainville Strait. Otherwise I feel good and have a healthy appetite.

Tomorrow I must tell Josey and Sam's music-war love story.

1^st January, 1998

Josey and Sam told me of how they travelled through the jungle when the fighting was at its worst, carrying a battery powered musical keyboard and a guitar. They sang and composed songs to keep up their and others' morale. They stressed the importance of music throughout the nine year war.

So, yesterday (31^st December, 1997) we travelled to Koiantu. The fuel was dirty, constantly clogging the carburettor, forcing us to stop frequently. We arrived at Koiantu late, but the Truce Monitoring Group had still not arrived. The village people waited and waited until close to dusk, but still no TMG. Finally they gave up and began their ceremony.

We were able to radio the TMG base, who insisted that they were on their way. So where were they? Meanwhile the locals grew frustrated, and Joseph Kabui wondered aloud whether the absence of the TMG was deliberate.

The ceremony began with political talks from Joseph Kabui, deputy president of the Bougainville Interim Government (BIG) and Sam Kauona, Bougainville Revolutionary Army (BRA) commander (General). There was some 'modified' playing of traditional flutes, the singing of the 'Republic of Bougainville National Anthem', and some dancing/movement and art work by a womens/childrens' group decrying the suffering of war. The hybrid musical style was unusual in its inclusion of Western tonality - chord progressions - using the traditional instruments. I recorded using both the digital video camera and the DAT recorder.

I was to realise later that the Bougainville Anthem was based on the same melody used in "Song of Australia" (one of the songs put forward as the Australian National Anthem so 30 years before).

The song performed in this hybrid style included:

Bougainville Crisis nii 'angko poi'. Nii' tasi'mari'nanng ovoring ningka a a Kavokavo roeta nii' ampa 'moiru' ovorinung niuma. Ovoring tasi 'ampi' naa. Crisis poi sisikeera taung. Ovorinung bakanang aa. Nii-e 'baike long pampiira - Nii dong mang mari 'nang lesu ningka.

[Bougainville Crisis came about so that we could identify ourselves with God. Material goods led us astray from God our Father. Crisis resulted for us to know God: God's painful path. Through the painful experiences we have life everlasting in Jesus Christ.]

This song was performed as the official welcome song at the start of the ceremony. It was followed by the TokPisin song about the value of culture:

Man in no gat culture Em i no gat as tru bilong em. Manmeri yu mas lukautim culture bilong yu.

[If man has not got culture, he has not got roots. Men and women you must care for your culture.]

After the ceremony it grew dark Some of the boys performed singsing kaur (traditional flutes playing, singing and dancing) as the girls/women danced around them in typical circle formations. Finally the people took their food and headed home, disappointed that the TMG had not arrived.

As dusk faded the TMG did arrive. Their delay was caused by an engine problem with one of the TMG boats and two incidents of capsizing. I suspect that their lack of local knowledge of the best spots to beach the boat was the problem: sure glad that we did not capsize a few days before with all my gear - in fact I had not even considered it. They misread the waves. They also had problems with their radio communications.

Those who had remained tried to make the TMG welcome. They were met by Joseph and Sam, but the whole atmosphere was flat. After some hours, a meeting was convened with Sam, Joseph, the TMG, local chiefs and local administrators. The TMG included the Solomon Island's Australian High Commissioner, and a New Zealand Army Brigadier- Kernel. They talked for several hours about peace and war in Bougainville until midnight. As we all sat around the walls of one of the classrooms, an elderly Bougainville man, referred to as a highly respected philosopher, and who had travelled from a southern part of the island, sat on a mat in the middle of the floor. After the TMG, BIG, BRA, and local officials had expressed their views, the philosopher began to speak. He tended to sum up the prevailing views, again emphasising that an independent Bougainville would still seek trade and other close partnerships with its neighbours, "what, would an independent Bougainville be an island on the moon?"

At midnight, to celebrate the New Year, the TMG - many are NZ soldiers - performed a Haka (Maori war dance). We then moved to our sleeping places (floor space in the school classroom tasol) - I was glad to have brought my air-mattress which had also come in handy when travelling in the back of the Toyota pick-up on very rough roads. There was no opportunity to wash, no fresh water, but a pit toilet was available. We, Bougainvilleans, slept slightly apart from the TMG mobs.

Actually, one of the Bougainville mothers had allowed her small children to hijack my air mattress. When I came to get it back, the mum looked at me as though to say 'surely you don't intend to wake up my little ones', but getting a little sleep in these situations is essential, and I did not lug that bloody air mattress all the way from New South Wales just to have it hijacked now... so exit kids!! Anyhow, with all their baby fat verses my scrawny bones.....

In the morning, (1^st Jan, 1998) I awoke early having had a little sleep. As we waited a few hours for the women to prepare breakfast (rice and greens) we sat and began, again, to discuss politics. Up until now I had not participated in these discussions (except of course in private with Sam, Josephine and Joseph Kabui). Now, however, in a less formal atmosphere, I decided to air a few views to the BRA/BIG leaders, local chiefs - and the local philosopher.

I spoke in TokPisin. I began to discuss the principles of companies and market shares as a way to further understanding the Panguna copper mine, as well as future plans for trade and business relationships in Bougainville. I began by making a few short statements. Various people then joined in, expressing their views (some of whom were, or had been, share owners). I then made another few statements to explain the next point, and then again others joined in. I recall discussing within this context the philosophies of Karl Marx. This lasted for about an hour. Some distance away the TMG prepared their own breakfast.

The people were interested, knowledgeable (as I expected) and pleased to see my genuine interest in their concerns for Bougainville, its people, its environment. As our discussion wound up, the philosopher turned to me and said "Yes, you are a teacher".

After breakfast we departed, but not before I had further discussed music copyright with a concerned local musician, who also requested assistance. He was particularly concerned that with the current confusion/dispute concerning governance of Bougainville, it was not possible to copyright his music.

I am referring to Channel Kira. He told me that it was his idea to make and tune bamboo trumpets, panpipes and bamboo bass to the Western scale. What he was hoping to do, was to copyright this hybrid musical genre.

Tonight, over dinner (back in my home village), Sam asked me to build a music recording studio in central Bougainville. He wants the young people to have something to do other than fight. He knows they have an interest in music, just as he, himself and Josey do.

After dinner Josey explained to me her work kin bush medicine: local herbs for all kinds of sickness as well as for making women fertile or infertile. Interestingly she explained how women who had had an operation to prevent further child bearing had had great difficulties with illness when forced to cope with the harsh and physically demanding work necessary when living in the forest with the constant threat from the PNG Defence Forces. She explained how a local herb can do the job of infertility with no such side effects: herbs for diarrhoea, infections, malaria, olgeta kain samting - maybe even AIDS (that was suggested). She has also completed a seven generations mapping of her a Sam's families. I am encouraging her to pursue "Bush Medicine" and not let Western medicine again displace it. She explained that, but for the PNG imposed blockade, she would never have learnt anything about bush medicine, and it would have been lost for ever.

2^nd January, 1998

I have just returned from the New

3^rd January, 1998

Yesterday Sam, Josephine and myself were picked up by the TMG helicopter and flown to Arawa. I did some videoing on the way from the helicopter. There we met with the NZ navy staff on the Endeavour. It felt odd being saluted as we came aboard (even I was saluted.. No doubt looking a bit scraggy, especially as I don't worry too much about a shaver when I am 'out bush'). Shortly afterwards we were joined by Alexander Downer, the Australian Minister for Foreign Affairs, and an entourage of Australian and PNG media including Sean Dorney.

I must have looked odd, especially as I was just as interested in videoing the media as the leaders themselves. After the various media shots and introductions, Downer, Sam, Joe and a few TMG officials departed the main lounge on the ship to go into the Captains Cabin. The media were excluded. I said to Sam "Yu laik me kam wantaim yu or?" Sam replied loudly "Yu kam", and nobody questioned my being there with the camera rolling, although the Australians, especially the S.I. ambassador looked uncomfortable. The 'Kiwis' however, were very comfortable and hospitable.

The meeting itself was interesting. Having been with Joe as he discussed (over breakfast) the stance he was going to take and knowing the Australian position, I knew that there would be no surprises. It was a friendly meeting in which Joe did most of the talking, with Downer occasionally looking uncomfortable. Downer stressed the need for peace - which of course we all agree with - and Australia's commitment to underwriting the "reconstruction of Bougainville".

Now here lies the conflict, but Downer does not know it. He did not use the word "peace", but rather "an end to violence". In other words, he views the conflict more in terms of civil violence than a war for independence. His insistence, despite Kabui's suggestion otherwise, that only Australia could fund Bougainville's "reconstruction" also misses the whole point of the BRA/BIG.

Firstly, Bougainvilleans have not only fought for self-determination, but also for a way of life. They know that they can be self reliant - the war has shown that - so they are not particularly interested in Australia's concept of "reconstruction".

I have been discussing this point with the BRA/BIG. There seems little doubt: "Secession from PNG so as to establish a new Bougainville - not a reconstruction of the past".

Secondly, the Bougainvilleans, especially Francis Ona, are very suspicious of Australia because of Australia's involvement with the Panguna copper mine (owned by an Australian company), because of Australia's colonial past, because of Australia's training and supply of the PNG Defence Force and simply because Australia is PNG's major donor. So, aid from Australia is viewed with great suspicion.

After the meeting with Downer, we returned to the main room where representatives from the BTG and PNG were also present. At this point the Solomon Island's Australian High Commissioner asked me to stop filming, so I simply observed. (Later Sam said that I should have continued filming, but I am trying not to upset anybody unnecessarily). Again Kabui dominated the discussion, Downer second, and the rest were pretty quiet.

As things wound up and the Press/Media were allowed to make their presence felt, I asked the NZ Kernel if I could "steal" a NZ navy mug for Josey. "Quick, put it in your bag" he said. This is making a good story back in the village.

Upon returning to the village, we viewed the video tapes, and discussion/politics continued well into the early hours.

This morning, after a leisurely breakfast brought to us by the women and consisting of more vegetables than I know of, politics again resumed.

I took the opportunity to discuss the Education and Health with Josey. After breakfast she introduced me to Jonathan . . the BIG administrator. He was most interested in and concurred with my opinions. He wants me to draft a proposal for education in the BRA areas, and we discussed a two week education conference, perhaps in April when I can return; -maybe. He also requested a supply of books and pens. I discussed this further with Sam. He thinks that if I can get supplies to Honiara, he can organise for their transportation to Bougainville and distribution to the BRA controlled areas. I also requested a copy of the proposed AusAid package, for the purpose of criticizing it from a BIG/BRA perspective.

Now for some story telling.

The helicopter flying in Downer, The Australian HC in PNG and the acting BTG premier had an unscheduled stop after their windscreen was broken by a bird. At first they thought that they had been shot. Ol i poret tru. Nau mi askim Joseph Kabui. "Does this incident have any meaning?" Of course I knew he would reply "O yes of course". The bird hitting the helicopter's windscreen symbolized that there were unwanted people on board. I was also told that the bird, despite breaking the windscreen had not been hurt!

The 4-wheel drives which brought us back from the Endeavour meeting had an incident on their return back to Arawa. One overturned. This makes me ponder about how safe we were when we drove to and from Koiantu. All 14 of us in one vehicle. Again, local knowledge seems to be the winner.

Now it is 11.20 pm. The generator is still running because several people are downstairs watching "Apocalypse Now" on video. Sam and Josy and their two daughters have retired to their room for the evening. "Bougainville, come to the Lord" they sang in the evening prayers and hymn singing. As well as music, this has been a deeply religious war.

The spiritual song, "Go down Moses" has been stuck in my brain since the war began in 1988/89. I have always assumed it meant "Go to Bougainville" and so, eventually, and with considerable hesitation, I came. So I was a little surprised when Sam told us of the story of Israel v Egypt as a lesson for Bougainville v PNG. The Bougainville people see themselves as especially chosen by God to set an example for the rest of the Pacific Islands and, ultimately, all of us.

Josey herself told me of dreams she had had to warn her of impending danger from the PNG Defence Force and has been saved as a result. Each of the other BRA/BIG leaders has also had dreams, not ordinary dreams. But dreams to say what to/or not to do. So much are dreams valued, that they are used as a means of decision making. Joe told me that before the first meeting for which the Bougainville leaders were flown to NZ for peace talks, several BRA/BIG leaders were very wary of going because they thought it might be a trap; until one of them had dreams saying it was okay to go.

4^th January, 1998

Began the day by picking a handful of lemons, or rather, knocking them off their tree, and fetching water from the spring and making myself a cool lemon drink, whilst the women cooked kaukau and greens for breakfast. Later in the morning, Sam, Josey as well as Josey's young nephew went for a bush walk (of course all walks are bush walks) where the young nephew climbed a tree and threw down fruit that was a cross between oranges and grapefruit (or at least that is how they seemed to me... I am pretty useless at knowing one plant from another). As we shared a fruit or two, Sam and Josey told me their 'love' story.

Josey was very young, still in community (primary) school when Sam first noticed her. He is about 6 years older. Josey's parents were strict and never allowed boys near Josy, but they never minded when Sam came around. Josey was very shy and used to hide from Sam. One time Josey's grandma (bubu) teased Josey about Sam and Sam told her off.

Sam has a scar to remind him of Josey's first touch. He had cut his hand badly on bamboo and Josey attended to the wound. According to Sam, the pain of the wound "disappeared as soon as Josey touched it" (much laughter by both Sam and Josey.. And the young nephew). These were very young days. When Josey was in high school and Sam at university they wrote letter to each other, simply describing their families, friends, school work, etc.. Once Sam wrote a 'sort of' love letter telling Josy to stop describing things and instead to describe her feelings, especially her feelings for Sam. She responded telling him she was too young to know of such feelings and that he would have to wait, Sam told me.

One time, as senior high school days approached, Sam surprised Josey in the garden. It was one of the rare times that they actually spoke to each other. Josey avoided Sam's eyes and felt weak, almost like fainting, "like an electric shock" she told me. When Josey was in Grade Ten (about 17) Sam had now left university and was training to be an officer in the PNG army. He returned home and went to Josey's place, boldly asking her parents to leave them alone so he could speak to Josey.

I can just imagine it. The young, bold army boy back in the village. Probably wore full uniform, eh Sam? Don't worry reader, Sam and Josey will be reading this little diary and its italic additions.

So why did Josey's strict parents allow such 'boldness'? Sam, Josey explained, was a local boy. Should she marry him there would be no disputes or problems regards land. Being a matrilineal society, the land is owned by the women. But used by all, and its use can often be determined by the men.

Josey then went to Passam National High School (East Sepik) to do her year 11 and 12, and that was where I met her as a year 12 music student.

Here I tell a little of my story. Passam was a horrid year. The kids (ages 18 to early 20s) hated each other on racist grounds. It was a boarding school, and I recall vividly the times, when, as the teacher on night duty, there was that too familiar yelling and carry on: another fight. Once, after a group of boys kicked into and hospitalized one of their school 'mates' I went into the classroom the next day and said "Okay, all you who fight like dogs can leave my class, I will not teach you". Nearly every boy left. They formed a little "Let's hate Mr.Tonti" group, which, combined with my own immature "broken heart" (another story) left me in a depressed state.

One day, after having firmly resolved never to talk to anyone ever again (!) about a week before, I sat sternly(!) on the steps overlooking the front office. Janet, my Bougainville girlfriend (sort of) came by but I refused to talk to her. Josephine appeared. We had always yakked away pretty easily, she was like that, but I would not talk to her either. But that did not stop her. She just smiled at me and yakked away regardless. I have no idea what she was talking about, but I became aware of the fact that I was looking at her. The sun was setting over the school and the forest and it left a golden glow on her black skin. She was beautiful.

My stern glare succumbed to a smile, my mouth opened, and I talked again. There and then Josey invited me to her village, and there and then I said "of course, yes", even though I had never lived in a village in the bush before. I just knew I could trust her.

Sam came to Passam a few times to see Josephine, and so I met him. back in 1987. Later, of course, the three of us shared a Christmas holiday in Josey's village, but that is another story. The same village, and very same house as I am sitting in and writing, 10 years later.

But not the same room. And I am not being taught the local language late at night with just candle light by Josey's younger sister.... but there are too many stories.

Of course there is much more to the Sam and Josey romance, including some very stormy times and near break-up - but that was not today's story, which only went as far as year 10 for Josey, as told by the couple under the orange/grape fruit tree.

I might add here, in case I forget, that there was a dramatic Port Moresby airport scene during which Sam demanded that Josey choose him or not. Yes or No. It had to be. In the whole drama, Sam, who was in full PNG army uniform at the time, created quite a scene. Josey was somewhat embarrassed. Meanwhile, Sam's flight to Australia simply had to wait (as the luggage had already been checked aboard). Eventually a somewhat sheepish Sam boarded the plane, avoiding the eyes of his fellow 'delayed' passengers. Sam tells the story with a relish, advising me, and others no doubt, that if you really want a girl, you have to make a fool of yourself.

I could easily launch here into the whole concept of arranged marriages verses the powerful influence of the 'Western' education system. But I will leave that for another day, perhaps. You see, Josey's parents picked out Sam from the 'start'. Only he was allowed to see her. However, when Josey went to boarding school at Passam in the Sepik, and then on to Madang for tertiary studies, and with Sam often in Australia for officer training, who could stop Josey from meeting whomsoever she wished. She met several young men, and her head was 'turned'. Sam had a fight on his hands if he was to win her.

We returned to the village today to find the TMG here busily organizing things with the BIG reps. The NZ Major Maybe was discussing 'nuts and bolts' issues with Joseph Kabui. I joined them to pose the question of using AusAid to buy materials for the BIG/BRA schools throughout Bougainville. The Major could not commit AusAid as AusAid can only recognise UN recognised government. That is, all formal aid to Bougainville could only come with Port Moresby's formal approval!

Whilst in Goroka, PNG I met with a senior UN team to Bougainville who expressed to me the view that they planned to assist the PNG government in reestablishing services to those regions of Bougainville which were not opposed to the PNG Government. Their plan was to make Bougainvilleans in BRA/BIG areas see what they were missing if they remained outside of PNG governance. Incredibly, they stated that this was a neutral position. The continued reluctance of government aid agencies to provide formal, non-political, direct assistance to the Bougainvilleans in BRA/BIG areas in 1998 seemed to be consistent with this non-neutral approach. It seemed to me that the Bougainvilleans continued to have very good reason to be suspicious of Australia's motives.

Later, at a meeting in Canberra which included senior representation from all conflicting parties, at Sam's invitation, I decided it would be worth filming a 'closed' session for historical purposes. Both Bougainville parties were happy for me to film. I then crossed over to the PNG side to ask for their permission. Noting my association with the Bougainvilleans they were less than enthusiastic, but nonetheless said "Yes, go ahead, and stop wasting my time". I then approached the Australian DFA and AusAid officials. They were very reluctant saying that the opposing parties would not agree to filming. I replied saying "Perhaps, but at this stage both PNG and Bougainville have said okay, the only real problem seems to be Australia". They laughed seemingly in agreement with the underlying implication.

Later, as villagers and TMG mingled I found myself in discussion with various TMG members who want me to come to Arawa to 'tok save' talk with the senior TMG officials. I mentioned this to Sam and they seem keen for me to do this.

Should I discuss various issues with the TMG, I will most probably be doing little more than elaborating or further detailing what the BIG/BRA are saying: that this is a war for a way of life, and a self-reliant Bougainville.

Not long after returning to Australia, I sent a letter written by Josephine which mentioned human rights abuses to Cardinal Clancy of the Catholic Church in Sydney. It is worth noting that approximately 80% of Bougainvilleans were Catholic prior to the Bougainville war. Cardinal Clancy phoned me shortly afterwards. Although he expressed a concern for the human rights issues and the requests for material assistance, he seemed more interested in the political question of self determination. 'Could Bougainville govern herself?' My reply was, 'Well they have achieved a lot even when under constant attack from an Australian aided PNG army and military blockade, what might they achieve in peace?' Shortly thereafter I faxed Cardinal Clancy with more details and contacts.

As an aside, at this time whilst in the village, the TMG approached me for information about Francis Ona and his relationship with Sam and Joe Kabui. They were curious to know if I might be able to speak directly with Francis Ona as they were very concerned about him. I told them that I probably could visit Francis Ona, but had no personal reason for doing so. I also told them that, in the words of Sam and Joe, they all, including Francis Ona, shared the same vision for Bougainville: "One vision, two paths".

Later in the afternoon I took a brisk 40 minute walk up the mountain to film a BIG/BRA school run by Bernard and his wife. We discussed education and agreed on all issues. We are looking, perhaps, to create village learning centres using distance education type materials with one or two support teams moving throughout the province to help set up, maintain and inservice these village learning centres.

Why learning centres rather than schools? Schools are too formal and structured, and wind up not serving the majority. Because the war has left thousands of young adults illiterate and in need of rehabilitation, learning centres catering for a wide range of ages and aptitudes seems appropriate. Ideally, people could reach year 11 and 12 educational levels without ever needing to study outside of their village learning centre.

Upon returning to the village we had dinner during which Sam, Josey, their daughter Melanie and Joe Kabui and others sang their Bougainville war songs. Here are the words of one of the songs:

Bougainville, Bougainville, the island in the sun

My tears and pain, my life to change, my paradise, my home sweet home,

To change forever more, my island of tears beneath the sun.

Planti man i stap bakarup, ol i ronawei long bus nabaut.

Plenti man stap poret, ol i hait i stap taim Mortar i pairap.

Plenti man stap poret man. Ol i longlong pinis, ol i paul nabaut.

Ol i pulim lain long CareCentre. Sori sori bai mi mekim wanem nau?

Many people have been misplaced. Taking refuge in the jungle.

They are frightened and take cover when the mortar explodes.

Many people are frightened. They are confused, they don't know what to do.

They crowded into Care Centres. I'm sorry, what can I do?

5^th January, 1998

Energy, it's the one thing I could do with more of. I am sitting here as the boys are cutting their bamboos for tomorrow night's singsing kaur, whilst other boys have just brought the big bamboo basses - this will be a 5 piece ensemble, plus a smaller 'tenor' bamboo instrument. There are lots of photographic opportunities, but I am feeling lazy. Pen down, and back to work.

So, a fair bit of recording today. After recording in Pirineu village, I replayed the footage through the 4 inch screen/monitor on the Sony TRV7 digital video camera. The people crowded around to watch themselves. A brisk 20 minute walk brought me back to Sam and Josephine's village where we again replayed the footage on their VCR, and of course the room was full of people.

I recorded with both the video camera and the DAT recorder. They performed at my request. In fact they wanted to perform a few days ago, but I was too "lazy" to make the effort to walk to another village and 'work'. So I turned up today and waited around until word got around and people finished working in their gardens and came to our flat clearing on the hill to perform. Here are the words of the songs which they sang with the bamboo ensemble:

Naaing naaing da 'maikoo' orare' nko memaung ee aa'deng ee sirang ee - aa'deng ee elikoputa'e'. Niing da 'maiko Osi 'okovenung, tavoranung paare nko memaung ee.

[Man, man, I'm just your friend, but you have treated me badly. From high in the sky. Up there from your helicopter. Your friend, the indigenous person. You treat me like a foreigner.]

This song refers to the Australian donated helicopter which was used by the PNG Defence Force as a gunship, supposedly in contravention of 'laws' laid down by the Australian government. Sam Kauona told me that it was flown by commercial pilots from New Zealand and Australia. People feared the sound of the helicopter during the war years.

Aiwara i pundaun nogut tru taim ami i killim ol man i dai. PNG i bin spoilim yumi wantaim company long CRA. Olsem na pait i bruk, plenti man i bin dai. Plenti man i lus pinis long island bilong Bougainville. PNG i bin spoilim yumi wantaim company long CRA. Olsem na pait i bruk, plenti man i bin dai, olsem na pait i bruk, plenti man i bin dai.

[A lot of tears had been shed when our people are being killed by the army. PNG and CRA company have destroyed us. That is why war broke out and many people died. Many people lost their lives on Bougainville island.]

I think this song is self explanatory.

Nogat wanpela island i olsem Bougainville. Oli save laikim Bougainville. Ol i save mangalim Bougainville, Paradise Bougainville, Paradise Bougainville.

[There is no island like Bougainville. They admire Bougainville. They want Bougainville. Paradise Bougainville, Paradise Bougainville.]

This song refers to the many vested interests in the resource rich Bougainville: the PNG government, various governments including Australia and New Zealand and the Solomon Islands, numerous Churches and their organisations, aid agencies, the World Bank, mining companies, numerous business interests.

Are'mong Si'mererikoo kansi 'eta oraruunsi' opa 'ranang. Piaaru nukanii kansi nokonupang nii birong mari mang.

When are you going to leave us? Sorrow and pain can end in our land. We are the unfortunate people, the landowners. We are crying, we are crying.

A song which asks the PNG army to leave Bougainville island.

Oh yu Bougainville givim pain long mipela. Na yu tasol yu givim dai long mipela. I orait i orait long yu tasol. Lonh taim bilong yu, yu ken lukim, oh mama Bougainvgfille island. Plenti kain kain hevi i kamap, na trabel tu i kamap, manmeri i dai long yu tasol. Blood i wasim yu oltaim, long taim bilong yu. Yu ken lukim o mama Bougainville island. I orait i orait long byu tasol, long taim bilong yu. Yu ken lukim, oh mama Bougainville island.

[Oh you Bougainville. You gave pain to us. And you also gave death to us. It's alright, it's alright from you only. At the right time you can se, Oh Mother Bougainville island. Many kinds of trouble came up. Many people died for you only. Blood pours over you always. At the right time you can see. Oh Mother Bougainville Island. It's alright, it's alright from you only. At the right time you can see. Oh Mother Bougainville Island.]

I have always found this to be a strangely powerful song. Such words being sung by people of all ages, from the smallest children to the very old... and yet with smiles on their faces to the cheerful beat of the bamboo ensemble. . . . both disguised and yet brought home both the tragedy and heroism of war.

Namaliu lus pinis, salim ol ami i kam. Yu bin hambak long Vanuatu. PNG i lus pinis. Wingti lus pinis, salim ol ami i kam. Yu bin hambak long Vanuatu - PNG lus pinis.

Namaliu has lost, you sent the army. You boasted in Vanuatu. PNG has lost, Wingti has lost, you sent the army. You boasted in Vanuatu - PNG has lost.

This song was very popular. I came across it on several occasions. Even members of the TMG were singing it, much to the delight of the Bougainvilleans. Certainly the people of central Bougainville believed that the BRA had won the war on Bougainville. Namaliu and Wingti were previous PNG Prime Ministers.

Tonight I recorded some of Sam and Josephine's war songs on the balcony.

The mossies have been especially bad after the long dry. Many people have malaria. I just hope I'm lucky. I'm taking no medicine, only putting insect repellent on in the evening with long trousers and shirt and a mossie net when sleep.

So, after another long day, like all of us I guess, I tap away at this little computer, telling you our story, or bits of it at least. On that night, I had already realised that I had stupidly missed my opportunity to properly record Sam and Josey's songs. Even their young daughters, Imelda and Melanie . . . . wait, the washing machine has just finished and the clothes drier awaits................. Noisy thing.... Anyhow.. Even Imelda and Melanie were all dressed up ready to sing and dance..but no, like a total dickhead I just had to go up to that little school to check out their curriculum.....and film the bloke with some sort of 'growth' all over his skin as he demonstrated a powerful sling shot......... ignoring the special musical moment at my home village that had been planned! So, realising my mistake (and that is being generous!) I waited to see what might happen at our usual evening family prayers and songs. Sam and Josey, anticipating my intentions brought out their war songs and encouraged the children to join in. It was late and the children were more interested in sleep (let alone my absence during the day!). Josey insisted on Melanie, her eldest daughter, born at the start of the war and therefore now nine years old, sing with us. Melanie cried. Still Josey's mum and older sister joined us on the balcony as they played the guitar and sang their songs which had been composed to keep morale alive when the PNG helicopter gunships and ground forces were at their worst: when every day brought the very real presence of death.

Reflecting upon the miserable situation, with friends and relatives finding themselves in 'so-called' care centres which, I was told, were hot spots for human rights abuses, suffering and shame, Sam and other Bougainville 'so-called' leaders questioned their own role:

Oeoeoeee Niuma niuma poai da' Nnka naa domang koo Naumeio 'aing kansi' nanu' anta baang paaii Meeka Meeka mui'nupoong. Poriai - meriai teko osi'koo niuma e bareng murung koo eee Papa papa yu kam Long hat bilong mi. Yu lidim mi long ronim dispela island Pipol bilong Mekamui, Pipol bilong Mekamui. Yupela i kam long ples. Papa i givim yumi oeooeeoe.

[Father, father you come into my heart to show me the way to lead in this land. People of Me'ekamui, you come. Let us go to the home our father promised us.]

Cute, don't you think pretty reader, how these jungle people can compose songs in two languages.. And then translate into English for us... But how about this next song which is in TolPles, TokPisin and English...

Bougainville ninge sii'dangpauka Dake'ning tampa nko memaung Ning baku'meai Kong meai dakangkoo domang koo Oi baka'daa ninge noru damaii Daa Bougainville. Baka Bougainville, baka Bougainville Ninge noru'damaii, ninge birontamaii Da Bougainville.

Bougainville em i mama tru b'lo mi Mama i bin karim antap long en Yu mas karamapim mi Na holim mi gut tru long yu Oh yu lukluk antap long mi Pikini, sweet Bougainville. Swit Bougainville, Dia Bougainville. Mi altaim tingim yu Mi krai long yu swit Bougainville.

Paradise is my island Bougainville. You are the pretty and the lovely as can be I want to woo you back to me With tonnes of love I have for you. Oh, please my darling Bougainville I am begging come back to me. Sweet Bougainville, dear Bougainville. I always think of you And I've fallen in love with you my Bougainville.

As Sam and Josey explained, this song was composed at a time when they thought that maybe the Bougainville people might have given up hope: when maybe they might go back to PNG.

6^th January, 1998

Well out to sea across the Bougainville Strait I could see white caps: a rough sea. I suspect that my crossing back to the Solomons planned for Thursday may not go to plan. Time, I guess will tell its story.

So today was not particularly eventful. I travelled with Sam and Josey to Roreinang where Josey chaired a meeting between the women of the BRA/BIG. I videoed it because it, potentially, has historical importance being the first time the women have decided to become politically active. They still do not have a name for themselves, but they elected office bearers. The women essentially supported their male counterparts with an emphasis on the suffering caused by the civil war - or war for secession.

The women did in fact agree to call themselves the "Bougainville Women for Peace and Freedom Movement". The meeting began with the women singing unaccompanied in a Polynesian type religious song in language, and concluded with a similar style religious song in English followed immediately by simultaneous and spontaneous prayer. I felt tired and at times ceased filming just to lie down and rest.

During the meeting a man who was sick with malaria was treated - the meeting paused - but aside from this the women were treated with respect. Interestingly the meeting was on the 'gentle side' - there appeared to be no conflict. Also during the meeting a helicopter and two TMG vehicles arrived bringing people for tomorrow's combined BIG/BRA/BTG/Resistance meeting. I am expected to video this meeting tomorrow, hence I am not attending tonight a traditional singsing which will go until sunrise. Seems a shame, as I really came with the intention of recording music. I guess I am being caught up in this whole business.

Also noteworthy perhaps was my lack of energy today. Maybe a diet of almost exclusively kaukau and greens is not particularly invigorating (no meat since I left the Solomons). I felt so lethargic. I wondered if the mossies were getting to me.

8^th January, 1998

They say the pen is mightier than the sword.

Food. Kaukau and greens supplemented by corn, oranges, lemons, nuts, mushrooms - what else - sometimes rice and tinned meat (brought by visitors), rarely, chicken bits and pork. Of course there are coconuts and sometimes pineapple. The radio is on - as it is most evenings and mornings from 6 to about 7:30 am. The BIG/BRA has reasonable communications through its radio, but now and again messages fail to be sent or received. So, what's been happening.

So, I changed my mind and went to the singsing kaur after all. At 11:00 pm I found myself in a twin-cabin pick-up without brakes - no brakes at all which is the norm around here. Sam's car has no breaks either, none, zero - and without lights. A boy stood on the tray at the back and shone a torch about two metres in front of the car.

It is too dark to keep writing. I'll wait until morning. Eh? Using a solar charged car-battery, Sam has connected a fluorescent light - of course that is par for the course. Later the generator, running off petrol, will fire up and I may try to make some copies of my video work to leave here in the village.

Imelda, Sam and Josey's younger (about 6) adopted daughter (adopted when 2 weeks old and fed on coconut milk) is having great delight in showing me a picture of the 'she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus' in a book titled 'The open book of the ancient Greeks and Romans'. Imelda's mother died shortly after giving her birth from a loss of blood. Before dying she asked Josey to look after Imelda as there was no one else who could care for her, and Josey was 'indirectly' an aunt.

And tonight I met another little girl, about 7, who was fed on pawpaw juice as her mother, the 2^nd wife of Mike Foster, was very ill with malaria and close to death after giving her birth. Mike Foster himself was adopted by Bougainvilleans after his Australian mother died and his father left Bougainville. Mike now lives in Sydney and is the United Nations representative for the Bougainville people. The little girl was exceptionally pretty with typical mixed race features and light brown skin (as different from the very black skinned Bougainvilleans), but seemed particularly shy of me and my 'white' (more like pink) skin.

So, back to the singsing. Shortly after arriving at the village . . . . I was offered a little jungle juice - made, I think with pawpaw juice and coconuts - as I began to record the music with my DAT machine and video camera. There were two singsing groups, singing and playing bamboo flutes and trumpets as they stamped/danced around and around and around in two big circles, each of which had a bamboo pole at the centre. The instrumentalists are always boys whilst the girls, on the outer of the circle dance, sometimes run to keep the circle turning (the girls usually move in the opposite direction to the boys). A feast had been prepared, and, at sunrise, just after the singing had finished and the boys had smashed their bamboo instruments, 3 pigs were brought in, and the girls sang a song for the feast.

Okay, I remember a lot more than this. This singsing was at Iwi Plantation and included three (not two) singsing groups from Tororei, Pirineu and Sipurei villages. I sampled a little of the jungle juice, but with so many people around, and not feeling familiar, I was reluctant to drink more than what I could politely refuse. The singsing continued nonstop through the night. I at one stage attempted to get a little sleep as there was not a lot of filming I could do in the dark - but that was a fruitless exercise. At the first signs of dawn, the general excitement grew and one by one the boys began to break their bamboo instruments. Finally, when the sun first cast a shadow, the singsing groups joined together and danced down to the river, where the remaining bamboo instruments were smashed. I remember seeing this back in 19887/88 and was told then that the purpose of smashing the instruments was to protect the music from being copied/stolen by other villages.

This smashing of the instruments could only be symbolic. I remember back in 1987/88 when my village danced for the North Solomons Premier for New Years Eve along with several other village groups. Another village group gave a particularly good performance. My village people watched fascinated. The very moment our bus approached our village in the very early hours before dawn, with that familiar sound of tyres on gravel, my people began to sing together, starting simultaneously and in perfect pitch, the song from that other village. A soon as we got off the bus we began to dance using the same movements as that other village. So much for copy right!

I returned to my own village by about 7 a.m. having hd no sleep and prepared immediately to go to Roreinang for the Bougainville leaders' talks. I videoed the opening speeches of the leaders before running out of video tapes - 10 hours of tapes all used (why didn't I bring more).

Okay, this was an important meeting. It included leaders of the BRA/BIG, the Resistance and the TMG. Prior to the public meeting, the BRA/BIG and Resistance leaders met unofficially in a house within the school grounds. I was wondering how people who for years had been trying to kill each other would get along now. Let me explain these Resistance fighters.

Not long after the BRA closed down the Panguna mine, the PNG Forces went to war with the BRA. It was a difficult war based on guerilla-type tactics. Within PNG at the time (I was in Goroka at that time) there was a lot of shame about us using our Forces to kill our own people. The PNG Government decided to withdraw all of its forces from Bougainville. Immediately after this, Bougainville, still under Francis Ona, declared victory and the independence of Bougainville.

However, within the power vacuum that immediately followed, several boys, armed with weapons, considered themselves to be the law. They did not operate within the discipline of the BRA. There were gang rapes, murders, and traditional chiefs were not respected. The situation seems to have been at its worst in Buka where civil fighting was at its worst. As a result, many people in Buka and also in some villages in Bougainville directly requested the return of the PNG forces.

The PNG forces returned, accusing the BRA of being criminals, and arming the pro-PNG Bougainvilleans to fight against the BRA. These fighters were known as the Resistance fighters. What followed was another seven years of war and the PNG imposed blockade which attempted to prevent anyone from coming in or out of Bougainville. Of course Bougainvilleans did travel across the Bougainville Strait, especially for medical aid, in daring journeys during the night. On many occasions there were "battles" on the sea between the BRA and the PNG DF and I was told of several of these battles.

A little earlier in the year, with Australian financial support, but initiated by New Zealand, the Resistance Fighters and the BRA leaders had met in New Zealand to discuss peace. The talks had been successful resulting in the truce I walked into a few months later (1997). Now these leaders were meeting again, but this time in Bougainville, and with many other combatant Bougainvilleans present. Joe Kabui established the tone for the meeting, to which the Resistance seemed in agreement, and ...as they started to catch up amongst themselves, I managed to rest/doze a few winks. The main, public meeting began without me leaving Joe Kabui to later ask "What sort of cameraman can fall asleep at the start of such a meeting?" With a smile I replied "Well, you started earlier than you said (which he had)........anyway, mi muso tasol!"

During the talks, the leader of the TMG, a NZ army 'general?' mentioned how he had originally given thought to whether or not the TMG should be unarmed. I know from my own few months in an Australian army reserve, that no soldier likes to be away from his rifle. So an unarmed TMG including mostly soldiers would be a strange beast! Sam (General Kauona) was quick to get to his feet. He wanted to clarify that it was his idea to have unarmed soldiers on Bougainville (not the NZ TMG leader's). It was rare for me to see Sam being 'aggressive', forthright, and exercising his position as General of the BRA. I had always found him to be gentle, a little reserved, patient, and forever cheerful and hopeful.

We returned to the village again after another 'interesting' trip in Sam's 4 wheel drive Toyota through the over green rainforest where the road, once a main road, has all but disappeared. The jungle, like the sea, claims back anything - houses, cars..... all with thick green creepers so that you can hardly see them - or perhaps not at all. Everywhere, green rain forest.

A special meal had been prepared for me as it was to have been my last night here. Melanie, Sam and Josey's first daughter, who herself very nearly died from an enlarged spleen - Josey took her chances and took her to Arawa hospital in the early days of the war (when the PNGDF controlled Arawa). In doing so Josey risked arrest, possible torture, possible death, but the alternative would have been to watch Melanie die - so Melanie organised for herself and Imelda to throw flowers over me just before we began the special meal which include a variety of fruits with corn, chicken, kaukau and rice - even some bread. The first time I have seen bread since leaving Brisbane. Josey told me that an ex-classmate of hers who was a PNG soldier, had recognised her at the hospital but did not report her presence.

I should mention here that I was told of many human rights abuses committed by the PNG DF against Bougainvillean village people. It was a time of great fear and distrust. Josey, especially being the wife of Sam who was "wanted dead or alive" had every reason to fear for her life. Early in the conflict, the PNG Government offered a "Dead or Alive" reward on several BRA/BIG leaders. On Sam's head was 200,000 kina which, at the time was (before devaluation) was a little over 200,000 AUD. This is an enormous wealth to village people, so Sam, trusting nobody, not even his own people, hid in the forest. His seven months pregnant wife, Josephine, had to follow him as she too was under threat. When Josey gave birth to Melanie in the forest there were complications. Fortunately, Josey's mother was able to find her and help her. I do not know the details, but Josey has had no further children. Imelda was adopted. The young family had to move constantly, trying to keep away from the PNG DF, whilst Sam continued offensive operations against the PNG DF.

Sam tells several stories of where he too could have been killed, and considers it the will of God that he is still alive. I certainly had had every reason to assume that I would never see him alive again.

Later in the evening I packed carefully my backpack, washed in the stream, and lay down to sleep. I was woken a few hours later by some of Josey's relatives who wanted to shake my hand before they departed, back up the mountain. At 3:30 am I was again awoken so as to travel to the beach for the boat to cross over Bougainville Strait back to Taro.

At the beach at sunrise I met Cletus who informed me that they had failed to make radio contact to inform us not to come. My fears about the white caps out to sea were realised. The sea is too rough to cross over. Cletus informed me that during the war many boats had been lost whilst attempting the crossing. I have no wish to be dumped in the middle of an open ocean during a storm, so I have had to come back to the village and wait for the stormy waters to be calmed. Nobody knows how long that will be as this is the cyclone season. I', tired!

So my journey and this story continues.

9^th January, 1998

So, who is involved in these 'political meetings'? Officially:

BIG - Bougainville Interim Government (pro-Republic)

BRA - Bougainville Revolutionary Army (pro-Republic)

BTG - Bougainville Transitional Government (pro-PNG Government)

PNGDF - PNG Defence Force (PNG)

Bougainville Resistance Fighters (Bougainvilleans) (pro-PNG Government)

TMG - Truce Monitoring Group (NZ, Aust, Fiji, Vanuatu)

Bougainville Chiefs (arguably mostly pro-Republic)

Bougainville Womens Group (arguably mostly pro-Republic)

Churches (seen very little political leadership)

Who else have been the players? I have noted:

"Daredevil" reporters/freelance journalists (have influenced other countries)

Media (frequently pro-Republic except in PNG)

Aid Agencies, especially AusAid (by self definition pro-PNG)

The Red Cross (neutral where possible)

FBM - the Free Bougainville Movement (strong Sydney base; pro-Republic)

Various Governments, especially the NZ and Australian governments.

Who has the power? Nobody has the final say, but the BIG/BRA appear to have very strong numbers and a well co-ordinated administration should a Referendum be called. Interestingly many BIG leaders are opposed to a Referendum because it would cement rather than resolve internal Bougainville conflict - they seem happy to see a long process of reconciliation rather

than a political quick fix. Other BRA leaders, of course, favour a referendum.

The preacher arrived for the second time since I have been here. He is Papuan, the only Papua I've seen on this journey.

I must jump in here. The strong racial grounds underlying this whole conflict make it extraordinary that a brown PNG man could live safely amongst the black Bougainvilleans throughout these years of bloodshed and suspicion.

He has been here throughout the war. He quotes from the bible with every second sentence and talks directly to people, including Sam Kauona and Joseph Kabui, who nod their heads in agreement and thank him for his words. His name is Ted Tau. He was a "crook and a drunkard", according to Sam, before the crisis but now he changed his way because of the "crisis" (Bougainville War).

Because the PNG Government put a price tag of K200,000 (at the time $AUD 250,000) on Sam's head "dead or alive", Sam and Josey were amongst the first, or rather, were the first to 'go bush'. Josey was seven months pregnant at the time and experienced a difficult birth in the bush.

Because people only returned to the village recently, and are still not certain if peace will hold, no pit latrine has been dug. We have to excreta in one of three rivers. Another is used for washing/bathing whilst the other is used for cleaning dishes and sometimes for drinking (once boiled). Mostly our drinking water comes from a little spring. A village so well serviced by water is unusual, although most do have two rivers (drinking and washing).

It is a leisurely day. After working on the car, -it amazes me how they keep them running without spare parts and on very rough almost non-existent roads - Sam and Josy are now off to fix the fence used to keep the pig and her eleven litter away from the vegetable garden and cooking area. I have stopped recording for the moment, having still not quite recovered from those sleepless nights of singsing kaur and the aborted travel, and am simply resting, writing occasionally, and listening to war stories. There is quite a job for a historian to piece it all together including the blackbirding days of the last century to Bougainville's claim for independence in 1975, along with the copper min's history (Panguna) along with the claim that four other mines were planned in Bougainville which will have destroyed the rivers and thus the Bougainvilleans way of life. A group about 25 minutes walk away have been waiting for me to go and record their music. I have felt too lazy to go.

I have tried the local brew made with coconuts, but I am told that the pineapple brew is better. I have not as yet tried the local cigarettes.

10^th January, 1998

And still I am in Bougainville awaiting news from 'the boys' on the beach that it is safe - weather wise - to make the crossing back to Taro. Using Sam's satellite telephone I have been able to inform people in Australia and the Solomon Islands authorities and Airline of the problem: they seem happy to assist through a Bougainvillean 'wantok' senior in S.I. airlines.

12^th January, 1998

Now, on Saturday 10/1 I prepared my equipment and walked, with Raphael, to a nearby village where for some days they have been expecting me. Raphael is a character. He is always chewing beetlenut or smoking brus. He likes action, immediate action, and has a keen eye for anything abnormal. He can make a simple bushwalk seem like an adventure. He is the local mechanic and can be found everyday attending to one of the vehicles.: a faulty carburettor, leaky tyre, flat battery, dirty spark plugs, worn springs, etc...

I am reminded of back in 1987 when Sam, Raphael and the boys took me out for a couple of days on the uninhabited islands in the Bougainville Strait. I took a carton of beer which we buried in the sand to keep cool. Aside from that we brought knives, spearguns and torches: no food or other drink. We found various nuts and vegetables. At night we shone torches into the trees. Confused, the birds flew down and were easily caught. In the sea there seemed to be an abundant supply of eatables - and I soon got sick of eating reef sharks. Mostly my job was simply to carry what the boys caught: usually two fist fulls of birds. One evening, feeling bored, and I wondered off onto the coral reef alone in knee deep water. Raphael appeared at my side. "It can be dangerous you know" he said. Suddenly he said "Don't move". I froze to the spot. He held his bush knife over the water, then with a sudden swing he sliced a reef shark in half. 'Not bad' I thought as I could not see a bloody thing except water.

On the way back I recall sticking sticks into the sand where turtles had made small holes. When a stick was found to be wet on the end we knew we had found their eggs. Looking at their faces I could see that the children were delighted to be sucking the raw turtle eggs. With hesitation I decided that I could not let them have all the fun, so I tried a raw egg myself. It was cool and delicious, and I downed many more with the same enthusiasm as the locals.

Back to 1998:

Anyhow, we arrived at the village with the women singing and occasionally throwing water over one of the men. It was a feast for the return of two young relatives who have been in Port Moresby. The boys were on the jungle juice and smoke brus and were not up to playing properly, so the group leader, unimpressed, did not want them recorded. Fair enough! There are two ways many groups can be recorded: (1) if I were to live here (unlikely); or (2) if we build a small recording studio here (a distinct possibility).

Actually, playing these bamboo bass instruments is physically demanding. You have to sit on top of the instrument, lean over the front and strike the end of the bamboos with a coconut husk or thong at rapid speed. Some of the 'drunk' boys completely fell of whilst attempting to play.

With nothing better to do I tried the smoke brus. After several deep inhalations my head felt a little 'light on'. I was offered some sweet pineapple based jungle juice, but it had less effect than the smoke brus. I then went up the hill to Edmond's (Josey's brother) little house where we mixed some more home brew which included boiling leaves. Pretty soon we were all gulping down all varieties of jungle juice. Somewhat inebriated by now and in jovial spirits, about twenty males, in single file on the narrow bush track and lead by me wound down the hill and the gardens back to the singsing. Our welcome was unexpected! Wielding a sharp axe one of the dancers, strong in build and under a long Afro-American hair style, came racing towards us shouting angrily in language. He raced straight towards me. Still of jovial mind I continued in noisy manner at the head of my little group. The axe wielding dancer's eyes were not on me, but on those immediately behind me. Racing straight past me he attacked the boys who quickly jumped on him and disarmed him. He explained to me later that he was upset that drunkards might spoil his composition.

I was later told by Josephine and Sam that jungle juice had been discouraged throughout the crisis years because of the problems associated with it.

As things quickly settled we joined the singsing kaur, myself included, adding to the general entertainment.

When darkness fell, but the jungle juice flowed in greater strength, we moved back up the hill to Edmond's "singsing ground" and danced to reggae music on a decent size battery run cassette player. By now my shirt and sandals had long disappeared, wearing only a pair of very grubby jeans we danced and drank. At one point I found myself sitting on the ground, surrounded by a small multitude of young men, snatching fist fulls of rich black soil and lecturing much too loudly on Bougainville politics and a fight for a way of life, tossing the earth symbolically into the warm, humid air.

"Who owns this soil?" I asked.

"We all do", came the reply. "All people!".

"Yes, but who has been asked to look after it? Whose responsibility is this dirt?" I asked.

"Who do you say?" they asked.

"Bougainville. The people of Bougainville. You. You must look after your soil".

And as more dirt was thrown in the air we continued again to dance. They loved it, I loved it, and the jungle juice flowed.

Catching the eye of a pretty girl, the same girl I felt attracted to at the singsing kaur the week before, I put some extra styles into my dancing and wondered about my chances. The dancing was frequently very physical with gentle contact being made between male and female, and far more sexually suggestive and aggressive contact made between males - a crunching of bodies - designed to tease the girls, and still the jungle juice flowed.

Just when I felt 'all hepped up', and things seemed ready to 'happen' the music was switched off. The laughing and general carry on subsided and the young people began to make their way back to their houses in the village. Finally I too, with Raphael and a few others with me, attempted to return to my village, but by now my feet were too uncertain crossing the moonlit rivers. I gave up and returned to Edmond and his wife's abode and slept in his hut until morning. They wanted me to stay a little while for breakfast, and even killed one of the chickens. Meat, a rare delicacy, but I could not bring myself to touch it, which I knew to be rude... I was not feeling great!

Again I set off with the boys back to my village. Tired and very, very dirty, with my equipment being carried by the boys, I managed the river crossings and appeared at the entrance of my village. The boys were a little worried about 'getting into trouble' for drinking jungle juice, and for getting me involved, and wanted me close by upon our return to our village. Sam and Josephine and the others had heard about our behaviour and were waiting for us. Josephine had a broom in her hand. When they spotted me, covered in dirt, there was great laughter, and Josephine ordered me to wash in the river or else - with a jovial swish of her broom. With little choice I plunged into our cool and refreshing river for a very long cleansing swim, soon joined by the children, Sam and several others.

Even so, my clothes were still incredibly dirty, and as usual, the women took them from me to get them ready for my next attempt at Bougainville Strait and my return journey. When they were returned to me, I could not believe how clean they were: as new! When I first arrived in the village I washed my own clothes. However, Josephine and certain girls whom she selected were "supposed" to wash my clothes. At first I was reluctant, but once I saw how the system worked I was more than happy to have the women look after me. My allowing them to wash my clothes was a further indication of 'just who I belonged to' and who I was dependent on.

It puzzled me that, in the early years of the crisis when a lack of discipline resulted in young Bougainville boys raping and killing other Bougainville people, that the women and society in general did not call these young men into line. Of course such abuses did not occur in my village or in any of the villages nearby, as this was the heart of the BRA. Even so, I am inclined to speculate on the real causes of those early abuses which lead to the formation of the Resistance Fighters.

Word had come, I was to return to Taro, Solomon Islands in the early hours of Monday, today. Our journey to the beach took two hours in a little 4WD Suzuki (of Raphael). On the way we hit a pig, caught two large crabs, and got bogged three times and again I was covered in mud. I guess a typical trip by Raphael's standards, but the Suzuki ran beautifully.. By 1.00 am this morning we were at the beach, and waited until sunrise before piling into EK, the boat, about 15 to 20 of us, along with two rifles and two sub-machine guns, and began crossing back to the Solomons. Before arriving at the SI Check Point, we off-loaded the weapons at a nearby island, and said a prayer to thank the Lord for our safety, completed with a sign of the cross. Everyone is Catholic! I ejected the video tape from my recorder just in case the authorities whished to know what I had been videoing and replaced it with something a little drier - like politics. It was annoying that over the past few days when events which demanded recording popped up I had had to tape over earlier recordings.

So, here I am, back in Taro. Same guest house, awaiting news of when I can travel to Honiara-Brisbane. All flights are booked until next month! I hope that wantok system is still working, Bougainville Wantoks! Perhaps I should mention that before departing Bougainville, and after much consultation, I wrote a draft structure for education in BIG/BRA controlled areas. It took much thought and I left it with Sam to hand on to his 'education division'. I kept a point form copy with the intention of typing it properly once I am back in Australia. I also wrote some suggestions for the Bougainville economic system and Health system. At my request Josey wrote a brief history of her war years which, along with a letter of request, I am expected to present to the Australian Catholic Church. It is one of many expectations and hopes.

It seems worthwhile here including Josey's letter without correction or alteration (which is difficult with a MS program that likes to over-rule!). Her original of course is hand written. Josey speaks good English. I might also add that, especially at that time with so much happening, the daily demands, the fact that people expect people to be with people (i.e. very hard to get on your own) and the inescapable heat and humidity, it was bloody difficult to actually sit down and write. This letter was received by Cardinal Clancy of Sydney who in turn responded. Josey's letter reads:

Catholic Church of Bougainville

Youth Group and Womens Groups

Republic of Bougainville

3^rd January, 1998

REQUESTING FOR YOUTH & WOMENS SUPPORT FROM CATHOLIC CHURCH

Dear Concern Father,

Happy new year's greetings to you from catholic christians on war torn island of Bougainville.

Firstly my name is Mrs Josephine Sirivi and I am a good friend to Justin Tonti-Filippini. I am a catholic woman and husband, Mr Sam K Sirivi who is a General for BRA and he is a United Church member. But all these years he and I have decided to come together as christians therefore we go to church together. I'm now working hard to organise catholic woman and youth groups during the peace process.

That's why, though I haven't met you or know you personally but I have strong faith that through God's love we are one. When we have faith in him, we do met in prayers at our heavenly father's throne. I praise God for his never ending love for us. During times of happiness, times of sorrow, times of mourning and in times of war for the people of Bougainville. Therefore today, I have felt responsible to speak out for my people on Bougainville who are suffering. I'm taking this chance to write to you through Justin Tonti on behalf of my people. I'm coming humbly before you pleading for help. My people have been deprived from the basic needs and God given rights on the island. For 10 years we've have suffered both physically and spiritually. For such a long there were no medicine and no hospitals operating for pregnant mothers, sick people and the wounded. We just watched them died a terrible death. No schools meant no education for our children in the last 10 years. All our children missed out alot in Education. Papua New Guinea Government purposely imposed total blockade on us so that we will get no help from anyone country or organisations. Papua New Guinea thought that by doing this it (PNG Gov't) would wipe out our desire for independence.

We just prayed to our heavenly father to find a way to get some help. He did hear our prayers. We got some little help through the solomon islands. Again it needed a dangerous journey through the open wide ocean where we lost our young BRA soldiers.

As being a catholic mother, I would say that my did suffered spiritually. In fact I realised that good thing, war did to our spiritual being is that most of our people have renew their lives. We became more prayerful because we were seeing God's protection and Care during the war. 10 years of war meant no missionaries, priests sisters or lay men & women. Also no Eucharist. We lived because of God's Words in the bible. We are under God's supervision that is why we have seen the rights of the indigions people of the land.

I'm so glad today to let you know that we the mothers want our children to go to school but there is no proper school materials to accomodate the population that missed out on Education. There is lack of exercise books, pencils, Biros, stationeries, sporting equipment, wall clocks and many other needed for Education. We also want some medicine if you could find us ways to help us. Concerning our catholic people, I now here, have three separate lists from three different groups within catholic church.

First list: Catholic church members,

special Rosaries 1. Holy Wound Rosaries (50)

2. Eucharistic Rosaries (50 string beads)

3. Seven Sorrowful Rosaries (50 strings)

4. Sacred Heart Rosaries (50)

5. ST Michael Rosaries (50)

6. New Jerusalem Baibel (50)

7. ST Jerome commentary Bible (20)

8. Bible dictionary (20)

9. Wall clock with holy picture (200

10. 1 Foot high small statue of Mary (10 standing on the Serpen

` 11. 1 Foot high Crucifix (10)

12. Advance dictionary (oxford) (20)

13. Manual Yamaha Guitar

14. Brown Scapular & Green Scapular

15. Chain and Scapular Medal

16. Guitar string 1,2,3,4,5,6.

17. Religious Video cassettes. eg apparitions.

LIST FOR YOUTH GROUP (CATHOLIC)

Musical instrument

1. Electrical Bass guitar (Yamaha) (1)

2. Manual Guitars (10)

3. Amplifier (1)

4. Tamborine (2)

5. Keyboard (2)

6. Speakers (4)

Sporting Equipment

(1) Volleyball ball & nets (30)

(2) Basketball balls (30)

(3) Softball balls & bats (20)

(4) Soccer balls (20)

List for catholic womens

(1) Rolls of material - calico

(2) Sewing Machine needles

(3) Scissors

(4) Rolls of cottons

(5) Rolls of elastic

(6) Buttons

(7) Zippers

(8) Singer oil

(9) Sewing machine

(10) Drawing pins

(11) Cooking Utensils

(12) Gardening Tools

These are all the needs that we've been with us for 10 years. No-one has realised that we were suffering greatly as a result of the war. But now since we are all looking forward to the future of our independence country of Bougainville. So we are all coming up with the idea of rebuilding our homes.

So, I'm thanking you in advance for accepting my unexpected letter. Sorry for the lots of things on the lists but it's just to give you fair idea of the catholics on this island. Thankyou in advance for your consideration. I'll be awaiting patiently for your reply to this letter.

May God bless you and all you do in the service of our catholic brothers and sisters.

My Address through Solomon Islands>

Mrs Josephine S. Sirivi

c/o ----------------------

Our Phone number;

-00872 ----------------------

Yours faithfully

Mrs Josephine Sirivi.

Did you see any medical requests? I guess the Red Cross was back in Bougainville and I noticed Josey seemed to have some medical supplies.

13^th January,1998

So, does this little story draw to a close? A special flight has been added for the big "stacka" wait list. I am to fly to Gezo in an hours time and from there I transit to flight IE4141 to Honiara. Tonight I am scheduled to fly to Brisbane. Just two problems: (1) my S.I Visa expires 8 or 9 days ago; (2) there's a cyclone in the area.

PostScript

Yes, I made the Brisbane flight. Oddly, all the time I was in Bougainville my digestive system worked perfectly, but on the flight back I most inconveniently suffered violent diarrhea. Was it that cup of tea in Honiara, or perhaps the airline food after getting used to nothing but fresh fruit and vegetables.

Yes, as promised I made the CD called "Bougainville Voices"and released it in Sydney with help from the pro-Bougainville people there, and did the radio tour around with Sam and Josey to talk about the CD in the Sydney and Melbourne studios. ... and edited my footage into a music video of the same name . . . and now does it end here with this diary . . or will I again venture into Bougainville for another Christmas holiday with my Bougainville mobs: how about 2007/08?